Showing posts with label nome. Show all posts
Showing posts with label nome. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 12, 2024

"THANK YOU! See you in Nome!"

Dallas Seavey pulled the hook at 7:53am in White Mountain and his team of 10 Alaskan Huskies trotted back out onto the Iditarod Trail, they have just 77 miles until they reach the finish line. Seavey has a three hour lead over current second place team of Matt Hall. Should Dallas maintain his lead he will achieve an historic sixth victory in the Last Great Race.

While it may seem like this is a runaway win for Dallas Seavey, the veteran musher knows not to celebrate just yet. Just ten years ago Dallas was third out of White Mountain following well behind the leader Jeff King who was nearly three hours ahead of Seavey. Aliy Zirkle was chosen to play spoiler having left White Mountain an hour behind King. As the trackers made their way through the Topkok Hills it looked like everything was going to stay as it was. No one was gaining, and King wasn't faltering...

...until he did. Halfway from the hills to the checkpoint of Safety King's tracker stalled. And stayed stalled. Reports came in of hurricane force winds in the Blowhole. Joe Runyan blogged that anyone out there was risking their life. A midnight, Jeff King hit his SOS button ending his race. He was blown off trail with no way to continue. Aliy Zirkle in the meantime was totally unaware of Jeff's misfortune and made it to the checkpoint of Safety completely rattled by the storm. She was advised to stay and wait until the winds died down. She had a two hour lead on Dallas and it seemed the right idea.

Then Dallas came into Safety and quickly signed out - he didn't want to be in the wind anymore than he had to be, and with no real barrier from the wind for the dogs it was better to keep moving in his opinion than sit there and wait it out. He was unaware Aliy was still there. Unaware that Jeff was not in Nome. 

Dallas won his second Iditarod that night in crazy dramatic fashion.

A similar storm hit in 2022, Dallas didn't win that year, but he came awfully close to it. We can sit and rehash the fairness of Brent Sass getting a message on his InReach device telling him to get moving as Dallas was still moving while Sass hunkered down to wait out the storm, but it's done and over with. Sass managed to hold Dallas off, but again Dallas proved that while one team is stuck in the final leg another can make progress. If anyone knows that the race ain't over in White Mountain, it's Seavey.

Faster finishes from White Mountain to Nome take 10 hours, sometimes they can take 11 to 12 hours. If Dallas manages to stay first and doesn't get stalled in the Topkok Hills or The Blowhole outside of Safety, look for a finish around 5:30pm AKST tonight.

Friday, July 16, 2021

Nome, Sweet Nome for Iditarod

Now that you've made it to Nome, what is there to do? Depending on when you come into the final stop on the Iditarod, you may have a bit of a wait until the champion or your favorite musher cross under the burled arch. But, don't worry about being bored! The City of Nome looks forward to the Iditarod week every year. There are many city hosted events taking place as everyone waits for the siren to go off and teams to come up Front Street.

In my last Idita-Getaway post, I pointed out the different restaurant options. Each one holds a special bit of Nome in them, and if you are at all into Food Network shows like Diners, Drive Ins, or Dives or if you were a fan of Anthony Bourdain it might be fun to take a look at all of them (and if you are there long enough it's easy to do). 

Your first stop should be your hotel's front desk. Most will have the calendar of events for Iditarod week. If by chance they don't, you can take a walk to the Nome Visitor Center (which you should do anyway). The calendar will give you the times and places each event/attraction take place. It typically has a map of the city on the back, and a description of each event. These maps are free, and make a great souvenir (speaking from experience). You can also download the Event Calendar ahead of time by visiting the Nome Visitor Center's website.


While at the Visitor Center you can chat with the very friendly volunteers and staff and ask their advice on what to do and see. They will give you updates on the race as they are able, they can explain the weather and the history of their City. They often have other free or cheap souvenirs (I'm a fan of their I <3 Nome buttons). It's also a great place to stop and warm up as you wait for teams to come in. They're also responsible for the City of Nome webcam, and are the folks you'll want to contact as you make plans for your trip and are in need of lodging (should you not be able to get a hotel, they are the keepers of the list of rooms for rent in local homes). This is also often the site for different tours to pick up/start. 

Behind the Visitor Center is a trail to the sea ice and the Nome National Forest. This one of a kind forest is the self proclaimed northern most forest, and is a unique photo op. Be sure to check with the Visitor Center before exploring just incase the sea ice is considered unstable (in 2019 we couldn't visit as the day after we arrived the ice broke up). What makes the forest its own is that while the trees are natural - they are "planted" on the ice after Christmas by the local families. They're used Christmas trees! The city also puts out different wooden decorations and other photo ops. It's totally kitchy and every visitor to Nome should experience it at least once.


Once you come back up to Front Street it's just a quick walk to the Russian Church and the Nome Craft Bazaar. Do not miss this. Many of the local artists and craftspeople plan their whole year around this bazaar. There are many beautiful Alaskan made crafts, artworks, and clothing. Many of the artists are more than happy to talk to you about their craft, their lifestyle, and their culture. There is also an art show where you can see many talented pieces and how they are judged.  Be ready with both cash and card as some of the vendors prefer one over the other. There is also typically a raffle at the door. 


Next, take a walk (or grab a cab if you aren't renting a car) and head for the Nome Museum. The Museum is fairly new having been built in 2017/18. It is one of my favorite museums in Alaska. Most of the exhibits are interactive and they share the Indigenous history as well as the goldrush and beyond. You are met at the entrance of the museum with a full on display about how mushing has been a huge focal of the area - with a tribute to both the Iditarod as well as Nome's most well known and celebrated musher Leonhard Seppala and his dog Fritz. You learn about the diphtheria outbreak that made Nome famous (as well as that little dog name Balto). Plan to spend at LEAST an hour there. Often during Iditarod you will find free talks and Iditarod specific exhibits. Jon and Jona Van Zyle (official artists of the Iditarod) were there in 2019 with a special exhibit of Jon's paintings and posters, and they also did talks on Jon's running the Iditarod as well as their adventures in Alaska.


Before or after you visit the bazaar, walk through the snow over to the Welcome to Nome gold pan sign. You can also meet the "Three Lucky Swedes" who supposedly put Nome on the map. This is a popular photo op for Nome visitors, and depending on the snow depth you may be much taller than the statues. There are also some recreations of Indigenous people's tools like a boat and salmon drying rack. Signs at each spot explain what you are looking at and the history of the items. 


Depending on what days you'll be in Nome there are several fun events you can attend as a spectator or even as a contestant. Several bars host trivia contests, pool tournaments, there's wet buns/tshirt contests (if that's your thing, the Alaskan spring break), poker tournaments, concerts, foosball tournaments. This is where that calendar of events really comes in handy. Most events are free to spectate, but some do have a $5 or $10 cover charge. Nome during Iditarod is a very festive atmosphere along Front Street where everyone comes together and you are the best of friends during the week. 

There are several gift shops open during Iditarod, and it's worth going into each one to talk with the store owner and to look at all the souvenir ideas. A lot of local artists fill the shops with their creations, and there are some really fun novelty items as well. The bars are also easy to slip in and out of even if you aren't a drinker (I'm not). A lot of history within those walls and there are several that people tell you to visit just to say you've been there.

If you have time and are dying for some every day entertainment, head to the Subway sandwich shop and go to the back, the Nome Movie Theater typically has two movies playing with your typical movie theater concessions. There will also be the basketball tournament going on during Iditarod and that brings a lot of athletes from all over Western Alaska to Nome. Many Iditarod fans go to catch a game or two. 

There's also a need to stop into the Bering Land Bridge National Preserve building. You can watch some videos on the ice age's "land bridge" that brought humanity to North American all those millennia ago. They offer snowshoe tours out in the preserve, as well as a host of information at their office. You can view fossils, there are some wonderful souvenirs (including pins that you can only get from National Parks), and learn some valuable history of the area. This is more of a hidden gem for many.

And then do not miss walking down to the Iditarod HQ. It is below the Iditarod Finish line and it's where you will mingle with mushers, their families, their handlers. The Iditarod dog lot will be behind the building and security will ask you to look but not take pictures. You can see how well the athletes coming off the trail look (which is AMAZING in comparison to what their mushers look like). Inside HQ are volunteers willing to answer all of your questions, a computer where you can check in with the GPS tracker to see how close the teams are to finishing, food for sale, and the Iditarod merchandise tables. There's also free (but very slow) wifi, and a lot of places to sit and warm up while your phone charges. 

There are things that I'm missing on my list. Nome events are always changing, though the mainstays go strong every year (except for when Pandemics hit). Every part of the week is a part of your Iditarod experience and while I do suggest taking your time and just being spontaneous, I also encourage you to take in as much as possible. By the end of your trip you'll most likely be in serious planning for your next trip to Nome. Just walking through the streets of Nome you can run into some really neat things. Talk with the locals. Talk with other travelers. We're all feeling the excitement (it's the one time I'm not THAT much of an introvert).

But, wait, what about...

Don't worry, I know what you're thinking WHAT ABOUT THE ACTUAL FINISH?! I want to see MY team come under the arch, I want to see the champion! Don't worry, I have that post planned as  my next article!



Like what you see and want to see post like this continue? Support is always greatly appreciated, if you want to buy me a slice of pizza (or more) I won't say no. (To be honest that money goes into paying for internet and other website related costs.)

Friday, February 28, 2020

Going Nome for Iditarod

An Iditarod legend once explained to me that to be a full fledged Iditarod fan, one must do three things:
1. Attend the Ceremonial Start in Anchorage
2. Attend the Re-Start in Willow (previously Wasilla, sometimes Fairbanks)
3. Be there for the Finish in Nome

Now, to be fair, for most fans this trifecta is a bucket list dream that may never come true. But, if you are able to swing it, here is some information, tips, and what have you to help make your bucket list trip a reality.

Getting Started - When to Book

Before you even look into travel and lodging, decide which year you're going. Nome is a small community with not a lot of options for places to stay so you want to book lodging well in advance (like when Iditarod of this year ends book for next year, and even then you may be too late). Nome is not on any of the highway systems in Alaska so your options are extremely limited, but with a little planning you will find yourself having an amazing time. There's no place like Nome (Dorothy Gale was *close* all those years ago on her return from Oz).

But how do you decide when you want to go? That's easy. First, decide what finishes you want to see. Do you have 8 days to spend in Nome? Then you can see it all and then some. If you have a specific musher in mind that's a little harder to judge, but with some Iditamath you can at least ballpark it. The Iditarod race starts in earnest on the first SUNDAY of March - every year. (Ceremonial Start is always Saturday, but the real race starts in Willow on Sunday at 2pm). It typically takes the first musher 8.5 days (give or take a few hours) to get to Nome.

If you want to see the Champion come to town (and I would suggest you DO because it's an incredible experience) you should book for Sunday through Thursday (at the least stay to Thursday evening). They typically expect a team to cross under the burled arch on Tuesday afternoon to Wednesday Morning. Most of the Iditarod big wigs and sponsors fly in Saturday evening/Sunday morning and leave out Thursday afternoon. They do book their hotels for longer stays but typically check out earlier than what they've booked and so rooms do become available for later in the week.

If seeing the Champ really isn't your speed, but you have a specific musher in mind, the bulk of the teams come in Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday, with the final teams coming in usually by Saturday evening. The Musher's banquet is that Sunday and typically all teams are in by then though there are the occassions where the Red Lantern comes across the finish line while folks are at the banquet. It is always difficult to judge until closer to race time as weather and trail conditions play a huge factor on how quickly the race is run.

If you can swing it - Go Sunday to Sunday. (That'd be the Sunday AFTER the Sunday start - typically the second Sunday of March, though in 2020 it will be the 3rd Sunday). You would have Sunday to get your berrings, and all of Monday to check out all of the extras in Nome. Once teams come in you'll find yourself having a harder time pulling yourself away from Front Street and the HQ. But we'll discuss that all a little later in this blog.

Getting There

There aren't many options to get from Anchorage to Nome unless you're willing to take a dogsled. Only two airlines run regularly to the finish line from Anchorage, though you might be able to find a charter service willing to take you that far. Be aware that all flights are totally dependent on the weather in Nome more so than Anchorage. I've been on flights where they didn't stop in Kotzebue as scheduled due to dense fog, and during the 2019 Iditarod several flights were cancelled because of the snowstorm that blew in and it took folks several days to make it to Nome as all flights were fully booked. Give yourself a buffer! With that in mind, let's discuss the options.

Alaska Airlines - This is probably your best bet for getting a good rate and a good flight to Nome. AKAir is top of its class when it comes to timeliness and affordablility. If you play your cards right you can swing a round trip fare for around 350.00 (ANC-OME-ANC). They typically run three flights daily during Iditarod season, with a direct flight option as one that stops in Kotzebue before continuing to Nome. Direct flight is an hour and a half travel time (roughly) and the ANC-KOTZ-OME flight is about three hours total time. All flights are on your standard commuter plane, most often in the 737 series.

You can book directly with Alaska Air on their website, you may also want to follow them on Twitter. They have an amazing social media team. I'm biased though. If you are an Alaska resident you get three checked bags free on your flight to Nome plus two carry ons. Make sure you're a Club 49 member to get this perk, it's free to all Alaska residents.

RAVN Air - Another option is the smaller prop planes from RAVN air. RAVN is the leading Alaska based "air taxi" service in the state. They service most of the remote villages and towns of Alaska. They are also far more expensive with fares as high as $710. With being one of the only games in town, RAVN has angered many Alaskans in recent months with their constant delays and cancellations with many reports of RAVN denying to waive fees for changing a flight even when the changes are due to their error. They don't have the best track record, but they may be the only option if Alaska Air is booked up. You can book with RAVN directly on their website.

RAVN appears to have no direct flight, but it does have a three stop flight - some of the stops are in villages that play the role of checkpoint for the Iditarod (one of the stops is Unalakleet). These flights are more expensive and more apt to have cancellations due to weather.

While there's not a lot of option for air travel, you don't have to book flights right away. We're three almost four weeks out from the 2020 finish and you can still book flights to Nome for the dates suggested above. Don't wait until the last minute, but airfare is rarely refundable or changeable without fees, and it's best to make sure you have everything else confirmed before booking your flights to and from Nome.

Please note - the Nome Airport is insanely small. As you come in from the runway (yeah you have to walk down stairs to get out of the airplane and walk across a snowy, windy runway) you will walk straight into the line of folks waiting to board their flight. On the other side of the line is where baggage claim is. There's no carousel. The airport is an experience in and of itself. And for some insane reason I LOVE it (after the fact). Keep this in mind when you get ready to fly home. You definitely do not want to get there at the last minute, they'll keep your luggage until the next day while you fly back to Anchorage. (Yes, I speak from experience.)

Housing Options

GET THIS DONE FIRST! Once you know when and how long you want to go to Nome, BOOK YOUR LODGING. You will have to call - while the hotels have a marginal online presence, they are still old school in how you go about booking a room. Note that Nome is not big on amenities, it's about practicality. You'll be paying high prices, but you'll be getting moderate to economy type lodging. Remember you are going for the experience, not pampering. Going in with that mindset helps. This is not to say that you're going to be staying in a hole or anything, just note that you won't get quite the same amount of amenities we're used to in the big city or Lower 48.

There are three hotels open in March. They are all within quick walking distance of the burled arch, and Front Street. While I have only stayed at one of the hotels (the hotel I stayed at my first time in Nome has since burned down), I've talked to enough folks both from Nome and who have booked rooms in the past to get a good idea of what each has to offer. **Pro-tip: If you can't find rooms for the whole week, see if you can get rooms for later in the week. This doesn't work if you want to see the CHAMPION come in, but if you really have your heart set on going to Nome for any part of the Iditarod finish this is an easy back up plan.**

Aurora Inn & Suites - This is probably the best hotel for the cost. It is warm, staff is friendly, the rooms are clean and spacious. Bathrooms are well kept as well - and each room has a bathroom. The Aurora is owned by the Bering Straits Native Corporation, and they seem to take pride in their establishment. There is ample parking in front and behind the hotel (though you do not need a car, but you can rent a vehicle at the front desk... it's expensive, I'd take a cab or walk). They have suites and standard rooms and one accessible room. The hotel is located on Front Street but several blocks away from the finish line. You can walk out the front of the hotel, cross the street to the Subway restaurant and watch the teams come off of the beach and onto Front Street if you wish (and if it's like 2019 and the ice has already broken up, they come off the beach further down the road so the teams pass right by the hotel on the street).

Though they don't have their prices online, it's a good to budget for $250* a night for a standard room. WiFi is extra (and expensive!). To learn more about the hotel you can visit their website. To book a room give them a call 1-907-443-3838 - they have an email address but they don't always answer back quickly. Phone is your best bet.

Nome Nugget Inn - This hotel has been in Nome a long... long... long... time. Or, at least, the building has. It's also the "official hotel" of the Iditarod in Nome. Many of the mushers, officials, and volunteers book rooms here. It is typically cheaper than the Aurora, but with the building being older it has a lot of older building complaints. Still, it's a bed and bathroom in a place that during the Iditarod has more demand than supply. The hotel is attached to a bar and a restaurant and the door leads you right out to the burled arch. If you're a light sleeper this might not be the best choice for you, but if the price is right there are always ear plugs. The party goes all night long the entire week of Iditarod finishes, lots of events happening in the bar. The bar is also connected to a restaurant (that is one of my favorites). So if you don't want to have to walk much the Nugget might actually be your game.

The Nugget will have a lot of familiar faces staying at it, and it's a very quick walk to the Iditarod HQ. If you want to be in the center of the action, this is it. But, remember, this is an OLD building and the hotels don't get renovated as often as hotels in the states. I've heard and seen mixed reviews of the Nugget, but as I noted earlier - you really do not have many choices. Last I heard rooms during Iditarod run about $199* a night. You can view more info on the Nome Nugget Inn on their website. To contact the hotel directly call the front desk 1-907-443-2323.

Dredge No. 7 Inn - The furthest option of the "big three", the Dredge #7 boasts "state of the art" accommodations. Wifi is complimentary. Rooms are either a King bed or Two Twins (I assume that means they push the two twins together and put on a mattress top to make a King?). Every room has a microwave, private bath, and cable tv. Rooms share a common area with several other rooms. The Dredge Inn is several blocks away from all of the Front Street action, but it's an easy walk to get to the fun. Rooms appear well kept and spacious. The hotel is owned by a 3rd generation Nome Mining Family. A lot of history of the mining era of Nome can be found throughout the hotel. The operate in two locations, but only the Sluice Box Street location is open during Iditarod.

The Dredge Inn is the only hotel that you can book in advance online - and they offer a 10% discount for doing so. A quick glance at their site shows that you can book for Iditarod well in advance (we're not even at the start of Iditarod 2020 and they have prices and dates for 2021). Rooms during peak Iditarod is listed at $254*, but it drops significantly after the Champion comes in. You can view more information about the hotel and book a room on their website. You can also give them a call at 1-907-304.1270.

Other Options - If you struck out on getting a hotel room, don't give up just yet. There are several bed and breakfast options that could be available, and locals often rent out homes and rooms for Iditarod fans. While you might be able to find something on Air BnB, your best bet to know what your options are is to visit the Nome Visitor Center's website. Not only do they have links to all B&B's in Nome, they also are the ones to contact to be put on the waiting list for the "Iditarod Overflow Housing Program". The visitor center will get you in touch with those renting out beds/couches during Iditarod. Not the most ideal, but beggars can't be choosers. Plus, you can't get more Iditarod than that! Some folks make life long friends this way. You can contact the visitor center through email or by phone 1-907-443-6555.

*All prices are guesstimates based on past rates. Please check with the hotel directly for any pricing information.

Food

I've often said that Nome has a wider selection of food options than we have in my hometown of Kenai, Alaska. That might be a bit of an exaggeration, but you can get just about anything you get in most populated areas of America. While there are no fast food options (unless you count Subway, which I guess most do) you can be sure to have plenty of options to satisfy. I'll list a few places I've eaten at below, note that some may be closed (one of my favorites closed after I went to Nome the first time and I didn't know until I got there the second trip. so sad!). Most establishments can be found on Yelp! So make sure to check that out when you're looking for places to eat. There are also quite a few bars, but I've only been in one of them to meet with friends, so I won't comment on them.

Pingo's Bakery & Seafood House - This is not a restaurant/bakery that you expect to find in "Rural Alaska". The food is different. It's not your standard comfort food. They have a different menu board almost daily. They are open only in the morning and afternoon but they are well worth the visit. There is VERY limited seating and it's pretty much family style. If there's a space open, sit. You can always order take out if you'd prefer to carry it down to the Iditarod HQ to chow down. Their garden salad is "fancy" and it's large. It's not really a *side* salad.

Bering Sea Sushi Bar & Grill - They have a huge menu, and surprisingly most of it is good. You have everything from American comfort food to Sushi and Chinese Food, to Pizza and bar food. This is the restaurant attached to the Nome Nugget Inn, so it stays pretty busy. Their breakfast is also pretty good. Portions are large for most of the dishes. They are open for Breakfast, Lunch, and Dinner. You will see many Iditarod folk there. I typically eat there several times. There's a great view of the sea ice and the Nome Forest

Polar Cafe - This is another eatery attached to a bar. The cafe is around the back. You get fantastic views of the sea ice. The food is typical American Diner fare, and while MANY swear by this restaurant as being the best, I've had very average meals. Other places IMO are better. Still it's a short walk from the Aurora Inn to this place, and it's well located. AND THE VIEW!

Airport Pizza - Go for the pizza. Everything else is standard. But the pizza is worth the walk up the road. Alaskans love their pizza, so it's no surprise that one of the best places to eat in Nome is a pizza place. The rest of the dishes - other than maybe the burgers - seem to be frozen food they've cooked up. The crinkle fries are just crinkle fries. Go for the Pizza. It's a Nome staple. Do it.

Milano's Pizzaria - I'm told this is owned by Airport Pizza, but I'm also told that the pizza here is not as good as Airport's so... I don't know. I didn't do pizza twice in a week. They also have pasta dishes on the menu as well as some Japanese dishes. I think Pizza/Pasta might be your better options as the Japanese dish I had was just okay. This location is on Front Street, so if you don't want to walk a ways to get pizza, this is the better option.

Golden China - Standard American-Chinese place. Nice sized portions. Hot, made to order. If you're like me and like "Cheap Chinese" this is the place for you.

Nome Soup Supper and Silent Auction - A fundraiser for the local Food Bank held by the Nome Methodist Church. For a donation you can sample several different types of soup. Get there early if you want to try the MuskOx stew. There's also moose, caribou... and beef and chicken for those that are less adventurous. Soup comes with bread and dessert. It will probably be one of your cheapest meals in Nome, and one of the tastiest.

Nome, Sweet Nome

There's something special about Nome, Alaska. It quickly gets inside you. Very few folks who visit during Iditarod come away thinking negatively. Most - like myself - want to return immediately. This is a trip everyone should take, whether you're into the Iditarod or not. For an Iditarod fan - this is a must do if it's at all possible. There's just something so special about being with everyone cheering the dogs into the finish. The family like atmosphere as you walk by strangers who you just feel a connection to because you're all there for the same general purpose. The locals are friendly, greeting with smiles, and it's a slower pace. No one is really rushing (except maybe the dog teams). Nome, Alaska IS Alaska, and I hope if you're reading this you'll be ready to experience for yourself very soon.



Coming up hopefully in the next few days... Nome part 2 - a look at what you can do and see at Nome while waiting for the dog teams to come in!


Saturday, October 20, 2018

So you want to come to the Iditarod...

Kelly Maxiner celebrates during the Ceremonial Start of Iditarod 46.
March 3, 2018. Anchorage, AK.
For many a mushing fan, attending any part of the Iditarod is a bucket list item. The cost of travel, plus the unknown of what to expect detours a lot of fans from ever making the trek. So often when thinking of Iditarod people think of the cold, icy, remote parts of the trail that seem impossible to reach. While the vast majority of the race is like that, the Ceremonial and Official Starts are much more accessible, and close to the largest travel hub in the state.

In the coming weeks I'll give off tips, tricks, and answer frequently asked questions I've gotten over the years on how best to plan and prepare for a trip to the Last Great Race on Earth. So often, for me, it's hard to come up with answers because my experience is not one of travel and care - I've lived in Alaska my entire life. I have routines and being born and raised here I am used to the weather, the lack of sunlight, and other concerns "outsiders" typically have. I've reached out to others who have traveled to this great state for this race, and will share their tips along with my own.

All recommendations come without any kick back to myself or anyone else. I am not giving advice as a way to financially gain or get any sort of perks for sending anyone their way. All opinions are my own unless stated otherwise, and I can only go by what I have researched or experienced first hand.

When to come

This is the million dollar question. While the race runs about 2 weeks from start to finish, champion to red lantern, most fans cannot take off that kind of time, so the question becomes - when do you want to come and what do you want to see?

The start of the Iditarod is the first weekend of March - every year. It's tradition and there's no way they're going to change it any time soon. The entire mushing season in Alaska keeps the Iditarod tradition in mind when they schedule their races. The Ceremonial Start is Saturday and begins at 10am. Teams leave from the chute on 4th Avenue and D in Anchorage, AK and run roughly 11 miles through Anchorage to end at Campbell Airstrip where they load up the teams and head up the road to Willow, Alaska to prepare for the Re-Start (also called the official start). I plan on doing a blog post about the Ceremonial Start later on in this series, so for now we'll just work with the time and date.

Like most other sled dog races, the Iditarod has a staggered start. Each team leaves in bib draw order in two-minute intervals. The first musher out of the chute is typically the Jr Iditarod champion (Jr Iditarod takes place the weekend before Iditarod) and is carrying the Honorary Musher (or if that person was awarded the honor posthumously then a member of their family rides). They get Bib #1, so all racing teams get bib numbers 2 and up. Depending on how many teams sign up, you're looking at 2+ hours of watching teams take off in a celebration of pure Alaskan tradition.

But let's back up a couple of days. Before the ceremonial start, the mushers come together for a Musher's Banquet. Thursday before race weekend at 6pm the Dena'ina Center is filled with music, food, and lots of alcohol. This is where the mushers will thank their sponsors and draw their bib numbers. Their official media photos are taken for the Anchorage Daily News and Iditarod.com. They eat food and mingle. There is a silent auction as well as an outcry auction. And the best part? Fans can be a part of the action! As of 2018, autographs are no longer allowed during the banquet, however there is a Musher Meet and Greet prior to the banquet which begins at 4pm. Iditarod does not show a Meet and Greet on this year's calendar events, but when asked they would not confirm that it would or wouldn't be happening in 2019. All mushers must be in attendance at both the Meet and Greet as well as the Banquet. Both the Meet and Greet and Banquet are ticketed events, with the Meet and Greet being included with Banquet admission. Tickets go on sale by January.

In between Thursday's official events, and Saturday's Ceremonial start is Friday's "freebie day". This is a day that many mushers's sponsors host meet and greets with the mushers they support. Inlet Towers typically holds a meet and greet for Mitch Seavey and Jeff King. Comfort Inn/Matson host one with Aliy Zirkle and Allen Moore. Other meet and greets also happen. Most of these are not known about until the last minute unless you know where to look, or are on musher newsletter/emails/etc. A lot of mushers stay at the official hotel The Lakefront, and there are several book signings typically planned with different authors and mushers. If you have a few hours to kill you can hang out around the lobby and talk with other fans, eat food at one of two restaurants on property, or just people watch. There's also the official swag tables, and the registration desk for volunteers. (I'll have another blog about volunteer opportunities.)

Sunday is when the real race begins. The Re-Start takes place on the lake in Willow, Alaska. That's about a three hour drive from Anchorage - but don't worry! There are lots of options to get you there if you don't want to make the drive. I know I sound like a broken record, but there will be a blog in the coming weeks to give you a look at some ways to get there. The Re-Start is the official start of the Iditarod. It's what all of the mushers have waited for all year. For the rookies, it's the day they've dreamt about for years - some of them their entire lives. The teams take off starting with Bib #2 (remember earlier when I said Bib #1 was for the honorary musher? they only run in the Ceremonial Start), and leave in two-minute intervals. This will be made up later when teams take their mandatory rest along the trail. Teams hit the lake to start getting ready as early as 8:30am (maybe earlier, I never get there that soon). Spectators are allowed to walk around the chute that is "barricaded" by that lovely orange plastic fencing. You're able to take pictures, talk with the mushers and handlers, and see all the dogs. Most mushers don't get too chatty as they are in race mode, but there's a buzz like no other on race day. Spectators then line the chute on both sides all the way across the ice and into the woods. It continues for miles. It's a sporting tailgating party, a must do.

For the next 10 days the race is run through Alaska's rugged and most beautiful terrain. There are ways to get out onto the trail and watch teams come into different checkpoints. This is expensive, and I'll leave you to decide if you want to add it to your itinerary - there will be a blog for these options coming, but this blog is just about planning how long of a trip you want.

Like I said, it will take about 10 days for the teams to start coming in. If you're wanting to see the finish in Nome, most have to make the painful choice of attending either the start or the finish, otherwise you're looking at a lot of time off from work/home... and a huge credit card bill when all is said and done. Alaska is not cheap - and it gets significantly worse the further away from Anchorage you get. So keep that in mind when planning your trip. The top teams average finish is in 9 days, bringing them in on a Tuesday evening/Wednesday Morning. Mitch Seavey holds the fastest time in just over 8 days. There are only two flights into Nome a day during that time on a commercial airline (Alaska Airlines), the Sunday evening flight gets you in with typically a day, possibly two, to get your bearings and see the sights. There is A LOT to do during Iditarod week in Nome. If you can swing a week in Nome you have a good chance of seeing all of the mushers come in under the burled arch.

The sun shines bright over the burled arch in Nome, Alaska. March 2017.

The Finisher's Banquet in Nome takes place two weeks after the ReStart (Sunday). This is a pay at the door event and is where the mushers all come together and swap stories, mingle with friends, family, fans and the community of Nome. Sometimes the banquet happens before all of the teams come in - but lately the red lantern has come in in enough time to participate in the festivities. The Banquet begins at 4pm and tries to end in enough time for folks to make it to the airport should they be flying out on Sunday night. The final flight of the day leaves around 9:30pm, so you may miss a few of the awards, but for the most part you should be fine. You don't need to be at the airport 2 hours before hand. Their TSA is... interesting. But that's for another blog (yes, soon).

Suggested time-frame

So what do I recommend for a bucket list Iditarod trip? Well, I could just be cruel and say blow 3 weeks worth of savings and come from beginning to end. I mean, we're talking bucket list, right?! But, if you are like me and have a limited income and so time and money are precious, I can suggest a few ideas.

For the Starts:
Fly in Tuesday Evening, Spend Wednesday touring locales near Anchorage like Girdwood and Portage, Thursday Mushers Meet and Greet/Banquet, Friday tour Anchorage and check out some Meet & Greets or hang out at the Lakefront and people watch, Saturday attend the Ceremonial start, Sunday attend the restart (at some point in those two days make a trip to the official Iditarod HQ in Wasilla to get a pic with the Iditarod signs as well as Joe Redington's statue!), Monday fly home.

For the Finish:
Fly in Sunday settle in and take in Nome, Monday if possible take a tour to see musk ox or the tour of Nome (both spendy, but it's on my personal bucket list), Tuesday is a possible Iditarod Champion Finish day, Wednesday is a for sure finish day, fly out Thursday evening or Friday Morning... if you can swing a full week then stay through the Finisher's Banquet on Sunday and fly out Sunday evening.


One more (important) note

Now, not to throw a wrench into things but... well... Mother Nature has had the control of late and we've seen Fairbanks come into play for the restart. This has happened now three times in the last 15 years, most recently in 2015 and 2017. Should that happen forget everything I said about ReStart Day and pay attention. SHOULD the race's restart and trail be moved further north the FAIRBANKS RESTART will take place Monday following the Ceremonial Start. The Anchorage Start stays the same, but they need Sunday for travel time to get the teams up to Fairbanks. This is a 10-12 hour drive in the best weather, and if there's snow and ice and wind as there often times is, the drive can be longer. But, don't dispair, there are other travel options on how to get to the ReStart. Flights from Anchorage to Fairbanks are regular and have several airline options. The flight is about an hour and half long. There is also the option of the train, they have rides running but you're at the mercy of their schedule, and it is based on track and weather conditions. Air travel is your safest bet.

The Fairbanks ReStart would take place at 10am on Monday morning, so you would want to fly up the day before and snatch a room. The restart takes place right outside Pike's Landing (which is a fantastic hotel, btw) on the river. I'll talk more about the logistics and planning of a Fairbanks restart in a later blog, but just make sure that when planning your bucket list trip for the start that you are aware of the possibility of things changing. These changes are typically announced TWO WEEKS before the start of the event - so there's not a lot of time to change plans, but if you have a contingency plan and budget in place it's doable.



Hopefully this gives you a basic blueprint to plan your trip for Iditarod - as the weeks go on I hope to have more information on all aspects of trip planning, but this gives you an idea of the timeline you're looking at. Do you have any questions on this or other topics in planning your trip? Comment below or shoot me a note on social media ( @tonichelleak on twitter ) and I'll give you the best info I can. Are you planning a trip? Let me know in the comments when you're hoping to make it, I'd love to know how your planning is going!



*Note: I am not an official travel planner or guide. All advice is from my own experience/knowledge.*

Sunday, March 12, 2017

Hello from Sunny Nome

We made it yesterday. I am saving the story for a blog post I hope to send over to The Alaska Life. They asked me to be a guest Idita-blogger (because they're awesome!) and so I've decided to have some fun and give it a go with a "what to know before you Nome" theme for the next one I do. Hopefully. If I can stay awake long enough to shoot one out.

But here's a little taste at what I've done so far... more to come eventually. Internet is slow here at the Polaris hotel (which isn't as horrible as we'd heard so yay!)





Anywho, gotta edit some photos, tweet, and write a blog post.

Monday, February 20, 2012

Iditarod FAQ - 2012 edition - Part 1

It's been a couple years since the last one of these. I still get asked a lot of the basics, but I want to try and make it more concise. To see the original, go here. This is a replay of some of those, but also some new tidbits.

The Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race (the official full title of "The Iditarod") began when a group of mushers - led by Joe Reddington, Sr. - decided to "save the sled dog." With the introduction of airplanes and snowmachines/four wheelers to the state of Alaska, the jobs that were originally given to dog teams were going to the newer technologies. Reddington and his band of buddies were concerned that the lifestyle they loved would disappear forever. Reddington worked tirelessly to begin the world's first long distance sled dog race into existance.

DeeDee Jonrowe's dog "Crush" at
the start of the 2012 Tustumena 200.
The Alaskan Sled Dog is a hearty, but small, breed of dog. There are no strict guidelines into what goes into the breed, nor is there a breeding standard. What makes a sled dog a sled dog is their desire and willingness to pull and run with a team. The Alaskan Malamute is the closest we have to a "standard breed" of sled dog. They are related to the Native Sled Dogs that are basically the starting point for all sled dogs. The best way to describe the racing dog today is: mutt. They are typically 50lbs to 60lbs, are incredibly hyper and high strung, and come in all colors. You will never see an Alaskan Husky in the dog shows like Westminster, they aren't always the prettiest of dog, and - again - there is no standard to the breed. People are typically surprised at the smallness of the dogs - hollywood typically uses Malamutes or Siberian Huskies to portray these amazing athletes in film, because they look better. The dogs look like your typical running athlete, they are thin (but incredibly healthy and well fed), and have thinner/shorter coats than their ancestors. Because they are running hard, the extra fur is not desirable - and mushers have to be sure to care for their team with the proper gear (dogs wear dog coats so that when they aren't running in the sub-zero temperatures they retain their heat). They are bred to keep the pack mentality instinct, and they are loyal and trusting of their mushers.

In 1973, Reddington's dream became a reality when the first Iditarod Sled Dog Race was held. It began the first weekend of March, and followed part of the historic Iditarod Trail and had long ago been used by trappers, goldminers and later the mail route (run by sled dogs). The race runs, mainly, along the same trail as the historic teams ran, but does not complete the entire trail. While Anchorage is the start of the race, Mile 0 of the Iditarod trail is actually in Seward, Alaska. To this day, the only Iditarod team to have traveled from Seward to Nome is 2004 Iditarod Champion Mitch Seavey's team when he ran his team from Seward the days before the start of the race in 2001.

In the early years, the race began in Anchorage's Tozier Track and travelled all the way to Nome. However, with the ever growing city's expantion in the late 70s and 80s, the race holds two starts; the Ceremonial Start in Anchorage (from 4th Avenue downtown to the Campbell Airstrip), and the restart at the Iditarod Headquarters in Wasilla. With Wasilla's growth and expansion, however, in the late 90s the restart was relocated to Willow where it starts from currently. Safety of the teams is first priority and with the growing vehicle traffic in the former cities, Willow was the best solution.
In 2003, due to a lack of snow in the South Central region, the race took a drasticly different route. It was the only year that Fairbanks hosted the start of the race. The teams took another historic route before connecting back to the Iditarod Trail. The race followed, basically, for the first and only time the famed Serum Run route to Nome. The Serum Run happened in 1925 when there was a Diptheria epedemic in Nome and the surrounding villages. Due to extreme weather, the newer technologies of transportation were unable to get the medicine the town so desperately needed. Teams of sled dogs planned a relay to get the medicine to Nome. A train transported the medication as far as Nenana where it was taken by dog sled. It took about six days to get to Nome, and the weather was horrendous. The average temperature was forty below zero, and the wind was so strong it was able to knock over dogs and sleds alike!

Leonhard Seppala & his lead dog Togo.
Togo is the official mascot of the Iditarod Race.
Most famous of the Serum Run was Balto and his musher Gunner. They were the ones that led the medicine into Nome. A little less known - but most heroic - of the story was Togo and Leonhard Seppala. Seppala was the most well known musher of his day - think of him as the Jeff King (considered the "Most winningest musher in history") of his day. He understood the urgency and need for the medication when several others thought more of their lives and their dogs. Seppala and his team, led by Togo, made most of the journey when several mushers backed out. About 80 miles out from Nome, Seppala could go no further. He and his team were exhausted. He had Gunner take a second string of dogs into the city with the medicine. Balto and Gunner weren't exactly rookies to the job, but they were virtual unknowns until their historic finish. They would overshadow Togo and Seppala in the history books, but Togo - not Balto - is the official mascot of the Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race. Togo and Balto were both stuffed after death. Balto resides at the Smithsonian, while Togo stands proudly at the Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race Headquarters in Wasilla. (By the way, Togo and Seppala not only ran the medicine towards Nome, they ran the trail to go meet up and get the medicine from the previous musher. Over 200 miles over some of the most difficult terrain.)

The Iditarod Sled Dog Race has two trails along the Yukon River, and alternates each year between the two. The Northern Route is run in the even years, and the Southern Route in the odd years. It's said that of the two, the Southern is more difficult because the wind generally comes at your face. The decision to have seperate courses was to allow more of the interior villages the chance to be featured and celebrate the race. The addition of the Southern route also allowed the race to go through the old gold rush town of Iditarod (now a "ghosttown" where only one structure somewhat remains). Iditarod is an Alaska Native word that means "A Great Distance." Iditarod (and Cripple for the Northern route) marks the halfway point of the race, and the first musher to make it into the checkpoint is rewarded with a plaque and $3000 in gold nuggets.

Because of the nature of the trail, and the fact that most of it is only put in for the purpose of the Iditarod Sled Dog Race (as well as the Iron Dog Snowmachine Race and the Iditarod Bike & Run), mileage differs slightly from race to race. The official mileage is 1,049miles (the 49 is a nod to Alaska's being the 49th state) but is normally closer to 1,200 miles when all is said and done. In 2012 it was decided that a major change to the race will occur. For only the second time, the Happy River Steps - feared by Rookies and intimidating to even the most seasoned veterans - will not be part of the race. A new trail was forged for a project in the area, and since its abandonment earlier this year the Iditarod Race Officials have glomped onto it. The reason cited is for the safety of the mushers and their dogs, which is the races' top priority. This change could be permanent.


Check back soon for part two of the series.